Days 5 and 6: Grand Falls, my mom’s hometown

We arrived early afternoon slipping off the TransCanada Highway at the Lincoln Road exit.  I could not for the life of me remember the street number of my grandparents last home together, but I was able to recognize landmarks and before we knew it I was hollering at Jake to “turn here!”  The home my mom grew up in burned down many years ago and my grandparents built a small ranch in its place which looked the same though perhaps a bit worn down.   Have you ever noticed that once you root yourself in a place you left so long ago that suddenly you know you are ”home?”  I still needed a map, however, to find my way round as the Grand Falls of my childhood, or even the one I last saw 13 years ago had changed too much.  Nearby was a hotel and I knew the owners knew my mom’s family. As is typical of Newfoundlanders, the owners were only too happy to provide us with a map of the town and clear directions to the homes of several aunts and uncles as well as to both the Genealogical Society and the Legion Hall where I would be sure to find some family history, pictures and artifacts. Next we found our way to the place we would call home for the next two nights, the Carriage Inn Bed and Breakfast, located only 2 km from the home of my mother’s brother, Bill, where the rest of my siblings would gather either later that evening or in the morning before the service for mom.

The Carriage Inn is a very nicely done place on Grenfell Heights Road and managed by the owners’ sister-in-law and another woman employed there for three years. We had arrived too early for check-in and the person on staff directed us to a local diner, Village Café, for lunch. We opted for a simple lunch – I had a hamburger and Jake decided on the chicken patty sandwich and a very Newfie side: French Fries with Gravy. As our young waitress took his order, he commented that he had never had this before – however, how he strung his words together made it appear he had never had a chicken patty and the girl was clearly surprised and a bit amused; she seemed to be wondering where we had blown in from – clearly not from this planet. I quickly let her know he meant French fries with gravy – and again she was surprised but not perplexed this time. Jake enjoyed the Newfie fries and we must admit to having it several more times before we left the island. That night we had dinner with our Uncle Bill and Aunt Colleen, joined by my sisters, Sharon and Pat, and brothers Peter (with his two sons) and Sean (with his three children.) We stayed up late reminiscing, playing pool and shuffle board, and drinking a toast or a few to my mom and times gone by.

At 10 the next morning we all met at the graveside of our grandparents, Albert and Johanna Crawley, joined by cousins John and Brian Davis (by mom’s sister Marie), Uncle Bill and Aunt Colleen, Aunt Pat (mom’s sister) and husband, Larry, Pat’s daughter, Geri, her husband Blair, and their daughter, Alex. John had brought a shovel and with a quick scoop we had mom’s final resting place at the foot of her parent’s grave. We cried and laughed and hugged and said a quick ‘Hail Mary” to send her on home to the family – joining her brothers, Gerry and Harold, brothers-in-law John and Bert, sister Marie, and the child she left so long ago in Newfoundland’s soil.

That evening lasted longer than the one before – commencing shortly after the graveside goodbye. Mom’s brother Kevin and his wife, Theresa showed up for a bit and while some of the family, including Jake, left to swim in the brook of our childhood vacations, I opted to stay behind with mom’s siblings. They shared with me the sadness that overtook my grandfather Albert when he heard of my dad’s passing in 1972, and the reminiced about my parents wedding day and the huge party that lasted for what seemed a week!  They shared tales of growing up in Grand Falls and the antics and escapades of nine children in a mill town in simpler times. Childhood nicknames came out as well with Aunt Pat being known as “A string of misery”. Mom was “Gandy” though they could only remember it has something to do with her incredibly long legs and her ability to outrun her mom when in trouble. Uncle Jerry was “Lefty” for obvious reasons, while Kevin was “Swab” and Bill was “Devil Legs” (though neither would explain the reasons). They recalled the time Nana had left Albert with the children while she went home for a bit to Fox Harbour. Apparently he was trying to do laundry and went off leaving the water running and soon the sink overflowed leaving three inches of water across the kitchen. His solution to the flood was to drill holes in the floor letting the water run into the basement, and before Nana returned he plugged the holes back up! Bill recalled an apple tree in the front yard to which he had hung an orange hoping to fool his dad – and to which this loving cheerful heart gladly played along. I don’t’ know that I have ever heard a family so strongly devoted in love and admiration for the dad who raised them to be his reflection to the world.

Jake and I and my brother Sean and his children stopped the next morning at the Legion where I knew was hanging a map my grandfather had brought back from the battle of Keiberg Ridge in Belgium during World War I stained in the blood of his captain. The map was given to the legion by my Uncle Jerry not long after granddad passed. Sean had never heard the tale and so we read the story that put the map in granddad’s hands and of the loss of one of his best friends in that same assault, one of three young men from Grand Falls who joined together and had sequential serial numbers. There too was a display of the Crawley family who had been in service to their country: grandfather Albert, sons-in-law John Scott and Bernard Davis, sons Jerry and William, followed in the next generation by Jerry Crawley’s children: Maureen Crawley (who died on active duty), Diane, Nancy and Cathy Crawley. His son-in-law, John Scott, had two children who also gave service to their country and are soon to be added to the display: my sister Sharon Scott and I.

We stopped to spend a bit more time with Uncle Kevin and Aunt Theresa. Our uncle Kev is a well known guide about Newfoundland and Labrador and though a humble man we managed to coerce him into sharing what we thought must have been the highlight of his career: taking then President George H. Bush, and his grandson, Jeb, on a fishing expedition of Newfoundland and Labrador. One evening Mr. President left Kevin in charge of young Jeb for the night who promptly fell out of bed and hit his head but never awakened. Uncle Kev not wanting to take the chance the child would fall out again put the boy in his bunk and put “his-self” into the upper bunk. Apparently President Bush was not his only well-known customer – he also was the guide for the owner of Pro Bass. I leave the rest of tales for Uncle Kev to write about one day.

We said our goodbyes with kisses and hugs and left behind my mom’s hometown and her family as Jake and I continued the next leg of our journey across Newfoundland on to Trinity Bight.

Days 3 and 4: Rocky Harbour, Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland

We’re sitting bayside at the moment doing a bit of laundry leaving me time to gather my thoughts for this post. It’s quiet out here even though I am sitting next to the main road which ends at the fishery just a few hundred feet down the road. Jake and I plan to stop there on our way back to the B&B to pick up dinner – as fresh as if they were still in the water – scallops!

We arrived at our B&B in Rocky Harbour (Anchor Down B&B) a bit before check-in yesterday and though our intent was to just ask directions to the fish store, our gracious hosts, Vera and Dave, warmly welcomed us in. Dave had just poured their friends a newly brewed cup of coffee and Vera was folding freshly laundered sheets. She introduced us as travelers from Georgia which prompted the question, “What brings you to Newfoundland?” Wanting to keep it short, I simply said visiting cousins in Corner Brook. Vera’s friend, Sue, asked who my cousins were to which I answered “Morrissey.” With raised brows, she asked it that might be Noreen Morrissey, the young lady who had been her maid of honor years before. Well, Noreen is my first cousin. And so in a world that had just gotten a bit smaller, Jake and I, Dave and Vera, Sue and Marcus chatted about life and coincidences. Continue reading Azalea Inn and Gardens reporting INN from the road

Where do Innkeepers vacation? In Savannah Georgia, most of the innkeepers I know typically visit family and friends and we have been no different, alternating between San Diego where our sons and their families live or Massachusetts where I grew up. This summer we are leaving Azalea Inn and Gardens behind, and combining an obligation of love with a respite from the pace of our daily lives and reconnecting with “lost” family. We have come to the Canadian Island of Newfoundland to bring my mother’s ashes to rest with her parents, to reconnect with a multitude of cousins, and to share with Jake the simplistic, stunning beauty of my mother’s homeland. Mom would not be happy to hear me call her home a Canadian island – she left “The Rock” as a young bride of an American GI before the Republic of Newfoundland joined the provinces of Canada.

We landed in Deer Lake along the Western Shores of Newfoundland, spending two days with my cousin, Derek, and his wife, Deb. Derek and I hadn’t seen each other in nearly 40 years though our mothers, Sheila and Colleen, (who are sisters) saw each other as often as time and circumstances allowed. Their home is in the sweet little town of Steady Brook, and while Jake and Derek golfed at the nearby Humber Valley Resort, Deb and I learned about each other, and then because it was an unusually hot day in Newfoundland, we slipped down to the brook for a swim. Deb slipped easily into the icy waters, but I was barely brave enough to get wet to my knees, but it was enough to recall summers spent with my Newfie cousins and ice-cold mountain water to swim in and the imperviousness of the young to heat or cold! They were idyllic summers, each of us farmed out to mom’s many brothers and sisters as no one of them had room enough for all 10 of us and their own large families as well. It was magical to be an honored guest at my Aunt Mad’s house and run about town with my cousin (actually my second cousin) Peggy, dining on Toutans (fried bread dough with butter and maple syrup) or a strange way to eat French fries – with either vinegar or gravy. No younger siblings to tend to, I was free of my usual duties. I want to slip into that time just a bit. Deb and Derek took care of us just like the old days.

Deb and I met Derek and Jake at the club for lunch and gazed out across the mountain and river below. Jake pulled the camera out of his pocket to share with me pictures of the greens, the views, and a very friendly fox. Apparently Jake overshot the 4^th green as did Derek. They couldn’t seem to find Jake’s ball where they believed it landed, but did notice a fox having a grand time “frolicking” on the green. About 40 feet away they were surprised to find Jake’s ball and Derek shared that this fox had been known to mess with golfers by moving the ball around a bit! It had been a grand day for golf, and Jake felt it was by far the best course he had ever played on!

Last evening we took time to visit Derek’s mom, my Aunt Sheila on an Alzheimer’s unit. Aunt Sheila didn’t recognize me, but chatted nicely enough with me. She looked so much like my mom that it was difficult not to cry, but just as joyful to pretend for a moment that mom was sitting there, and I could hold her frail hand, and kiss her soft fragrant cheeks. I told her she was beautiful, and she turned to Deb and commented, “She must be a bit soft in the head, eh?” We all laughed and Aunt Sheila was as sweet as I had ever seen her. When time came to leave, we each gave her a kiss, but knowing I would probably never see her again, I turned back for one more. Her face lit up and after she said, “Anyone else?” Jake stepped up for a big kiss as well. She was smiling back at me with my mother’s soft eyes and a smile that said “I love you.” as we waved goodbye.

Tomorrow we drive to Gros Morne, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, for two days of trails and hiking, sightseeing and relaxation, and a chance to sit on the other side of the table, so to speak, as guests as the Anchor Down B&B in Rocky Harbour.

Have you ever wondered how the innkeeper at Azalea Inn and Gardens finds the time to explore the city, find new adventures, seek out great restaurants, and still manage to do all the other things that makes your stay memorable? Spur of the moment is the answer. There will be that little window of opportunity that you must squeeze into and make the most of. Yesterday presented just such an opportunity. Finishing up a photo shoot in the heat of a Savannah summer I knew this was the moment to sample two new ice cream shops in the historic district of Savannah. Capturing a parking spot on Liberty Street, just steps away from our first target, Mr. Koolz Gelato and Water Ice, we quickly fed the meter and nearly danced up to the engaging purple awning. Oh… Dear. The door was locked, lights on, no on home. Hmmm.

Well, it was only a short walk around the corner onto Bull Street and our next stop, Ice Cream, Etc, located in a former tobacco shop directly across the street from the Red telephone booth outside Six Pence Pub made famous in that Julia Robert’s movie, “Something To Talk About”. The store still smells faintly of tobacco, but surprisingly, is not off-putting. There is a pleasant young girl behind the counter serving a family of five everything from Cotton Candy ice cream to simple Vanilla. I had to chuckle to myself when the mom deftly begins licking the youngest child’s blue ice cream claiming “I’m just trying to keep it from dripping on you!” to the child’s protests. Is there a mom alive who hasn’t perhaps used those same words in the earnest fight to stop the drip? We learned the ice cream was not homemade, but enjoyed a scoop of coffee ice cream anyway, and decided to head home – after all, it was approaching 1:30 pm and we had guests to welcome.

As we passed the pretty purple awning of Mr. Koolz Gelato and Water Ice, we noted someone seated inside – did we dare take the time? Absolutely! Inside we found a pleasant smiling woman finishing off the last bit of her lunch. We mentioned that we had stopped earlier to which she quickly replied – it had been so quiet I thought I would grab some lunch! She hurried around the counter and offered us samples of anything, and everything! What to choose? Milk-based gelato flavors of Lavender, Pistachio, Toasted Almond, and Coconut. Fruit-based flavors of Pear, Blood Orange, Mango and Sour Cherry.  Or perhaps Water Ice, or as Americans like to say “Italian Ice.”

I fluttered, I sampled, I re-sampled, finally settling on a double scoop with Coconut and Toasted Almond. I sank into a comfy chair near the front of the store to savor each delicious and decadent spoonful – overjoyed to know that there were fewer calories in this ode to summer than in ice cream! Ah, nirvana.

Between bites, I converse with the owner, Janet, ever curious about the story behind every face in Savannah. Janet moved to the area several years ago from New Jersey, but her story is sprinkled with enchanting details, mystery (which may have something to do with her other joy – reading Tarot cards, but that’s another story) and a passion for gelato. Though a typical day will see a sampling of 24 varieties, she estimates she had made upwards of 200 varieties and enjoys experimenting to get the full flavor just so.

I suddenly realize the time and jump up to leave. I can assure you, Mr. Koolz Gelato and Water Ice is a big YES on our recommendations to visitors to our city.

Wine and Food Pairing
 

June 19, 2010 

 

Maso Canali Pinot Grigio.—an Estate Bottled, Single Vineyard wine from Trentino, Italy. 7% of the grapes are dried on racks for several months, then the concentrated juice is blended back in with the rest for added depth and character. ($15) 
 

Surprisingly: Onion rings and dipping sauces
 

  

 

Alamos Torrontes—This is the unique, fragrant grape of Argentina cultivated there since the times of the Conquistadors.
Lively notes of citrus and peach interwoven with hints of jasmine and herbs make this wine perfect for spicy foods. ($9)
 

Capicola Rolls
 

Spicy cipacola ham rolled around goat cheese and micro greens topped with a three pepper relish 

 Martin Codax Allbariño—This is Spain’s best white wine grape. Grown in the Rias Baixas region near the coast of the Atlantic Ocean, Albariño pairs wonderfully with seafood. It is an aromatic and complex wine that is rich, elegant, dry and crisp with flavors of ripe apples, peach, apricot, melon, grapefruit and lemon zest melded perfectly together with a bright minerality. ($13)  

Bay Scallop Gratin
 

Individual gratins of bay scallops in a white wine sauce with a golden brown crust of garlic, shallots, prosciutto and panko bread crumbs  

  

  

 

William Hill Chardonnay—This Central Coast wine has a tropical nose with toasty oak, pear and vanilla scents. Clean and soft on the palate, with butterscotch and tropical fruit flavors. Finishes dry with vanilla cream, buttered popcorn, lime, chalk and mineral flavors. ($12)
 

 Crab Cakes 

with sweet corn and peppers and whole seed mustard sauce  

        
 

Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc—From Marlborough, New Zealand, this wine is an intensely flavored, medium-bodied wine with vibrant peach, tropical fruit and grapefruit aromas and freshly cut herb undertones. A light straw colored wine with lemon tones, this wine refreshes the palate with a crisp, clean, lingering finish. ($15)  

Shrimp Shooters
 

 

Everyone and I mean everyone flocks to Savannah, the most haunted city in America, for Halloween weekend. This year, one can also enjoy the area’s biggest motoring festival with an historic sports car racing championship point series event in Savannah followed the next weekend with a car club jamboree, a “Motoring Midway” and culminating with the 9^th annual Concours d’Elegance competition featuring over 150 vintage cars and motorcycles.

Kickoff begins on Halloween weekend (October 29-31) with the Savannah/Hilton Head Speed Classic which is hosted at one of racing’s “hidden gems,” the Savannah Harbor Race Course on Hutchinson Island (adjacent to Savannah GA’s famed River St, the Savannah/Hilton Head Speed Classic offers everything for the avid performance car fan including historic racing, hot laps rides with certified drivers around the track at racing speeds and touring laps around the track in your own car. 

The second week of the event starts on Saturday, November 6 with the newest to the Motoring Festival lineup and unique to the Hilton Head Island event, the Motoring Midway, an un-judged event, offers a mix of days past while showcasing the vehicles of today and the technologies of tomorrow. With exhibits ranging from historic motorcycles to the newest in automotive technology, the Midway is a dynamic, interactive “trip” through the past, present and future of powered vehicles.

Saturday’s main event, the Car Club Jamboree, invites car clubs from throughout the US.  Those clubs, in turn, chose their best representatives to participate in the. Through national and regional car club participation, the Car Club Jamboree presents cars from the 1940’s to current vintage including Muscle cars, hot rods and European performance cars, 2010 will feature car clubs that celebrate the beauty of Italian design featuring Marques such as Ferrari, Lamborghini, Alfa Romeo and Fiat.

The first Sunday of November will be the centerpiece of the Motoring Festival… the Concours d’Elegance. Over one Hundred and Fifty vintage vehicles, many of the finest in the world, will line the fields of Honey Horn, a historic Southern plantation, under the spreading oaks and flowing Spanish Moss characteristic of the South Carolina Low Country, to compete for the coveted title of ‘Best of Show’ and “People’s Choice” Awards.

Believed by many Concours d’Elegance judges, exhibitors and enthusiasts as one of the top few events in the country, Hilton Head Island will celebrate the iconic American marque of Chevrolet as the 2010 Honored Marque including a special class of Corvairs to celebrate its 50th Anniversary. In addition, Hilton Head Island will also feature Brass Era Cars, Motorcycles and Micro Cars as well as offer special anniversary classes for both Jaguar E-Class (50th) and Alfa Romeo (100th).

What?  What is a ring shouter?  Well, I certainly didn’t know before I read the newspaper article in the Savannah Morning News but as I write this blog I am listening to a recording of “Run Old Jeremiah” sung by Joe Washington Brown and Austin Coleman in Jennings, Louisiana, in 1934.   The words of the ”shout” are written just below the recording which helps make sense of the roles each Shouter plays.  The leader is the ”Songster” who begins the song, and next to him is the “basser” whose job it is to call back the lines of the song. Next to the leader is the “stick man” who beats a rhythm with a wooden stick or broom and the basser adds rhythm with hand clapping or foot tapping. The women shouters move in a counterclockwise direction shuffling their feet while singing. Pantomime may also be a part of the ring shout to help convey the story of the song, like rocking a baby.

The congregation of the Mount Calvary Baptist Church in the tiny community in Bolden is known as the keepers of ring shout, a spiritual dance-like practice rooted in the African slave tradition. The practice was first described during the Civil War by outside observers in coastal communities of Georgia and South Carolina and was largely thought to have died out until its rediscovery in the early 1980’s. These shout songs have been passed down from their slave ancestors generation to generation largely intact. The church has a performing group, the McIntosh County Shouters that performs anywhere they are asked to, and recently received a $3000 grant from the Plum Creek Foundation to continue performing the ring shout in area schools.

Join the McIntosh County Shouters at 6 p.m. on July 21 at the Second African Baptist Church, 123 Houston Street. The group hopes to raise money for a trip to perform in Washington, DC at the Kennedy Center on December 1 and at the Lincoln Center on December 2. I hope to see you there!

Last evening (June 19, 2010) a trio of innkeepers, Teresa, Diane and Jackie, hosted the first of 12 Wine and Food Pairing evenings at Azalea Inn and Gardens.  Join us every Saturday of the month, and a lively theme will give you a hint of what is to come. Diane Rousakis, accompanied by Lindsay Melton of United Distributors, lent her expertise to the evening showcasing five wines from her portfolio in response to “Summer Whites: Do Blondes Have More Fun?” We took a slightly unconventional approach this evening presenting each wine individually, followed by its paired appetizer, an excellent opportunity to compare and contrast each wine and note how food combinations may change your perception.

Maso Canali Pinot Grigio was first up paired with (surprisingly) Onion Rings! Diane gave an easy to understand lecture on the pinot grigio grape and the particular characteristics of this blending. Everyone had the opportunity to appreciate the characteristics of the wine before sampling the onion rings, prepared by Azalea Inn and Garden’s chef, Kolin. The delicate crunch of the rings and the bite of the onion dipped into two somewhat zesty dipping sauces were a hit!

Our second wine of the evening was the Alamos Torrontes, an Argentina wine with citrus and peach notes and hints of jasmine and herbs which made it a perfect pairing for something a bit spicy. Jackie of the Zeigler House Inn served up spicy capicola ham rolled around goat cheese and micro-greens all topped with a three-pepper relish.

Next was the Martin Codax Albarino, an aromatic complex Spanish white wine, dry and crisp with flavors of ripe apples, peach, apricots, melon, grapefruit and lemon zest with a bright minerality, making a perfect match for Jackie’s next food pairing. Individual gratins of bay scallops in a white wine sauce with a golden brown crust of garlic, shallots, prosciutto and panko bread crumbs were chosen as the accompaniment to this rich and elegant wine.

California’s Central Coast was brilliantly represented by a William Hill Chardonnay paired perfectly: Crab Cakes with sweet corn and peppers with a whole seed mustard sauce (my personal favorite of the night) prepared by Diane of the Green Palm Inn. This Chardonnay has a tropical nose with toasty oak, pear and vanilla scents. Clean and soft on the palate, butterscotch and tropical fruit flavors married sublimely with the crab cakes and complimented the vanilla cream, buttered popcorn, lime and mineral finish of the wine.

The final wine of the evening, White Haven Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand is a refreshing palate pleaser with vibrant peach, tropical fruit and grapefruit aromas with freshly-cut herb undertones. The outstanding Shrimp Shooters with fresh Georgia wild shrimp was an inspired and unusual treat.

The evening wrapped up with a light tart filled with a ginger cream and fresh berries – and we can all thank Kolin for that good night treat! 

 A good time was had by all!

This historic inn features a swimming pool, a pretty unique amenity, enjoyed especially by downtown historic inn travelers during spring, summer and fall getaways in beautiful Savannah, Georgia. Tucked between the main house and the garden cottage is a rear deck with chaise lounges, teak dining tables and umbrellas and a company-sized outdoor grill! Relax with a glass of sweet tea or perhaps our soon-to-be-famous lemonade and the book, “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil”.

Savannah-style warmth, local cultural intimacy, and North meets South playfulness are part of the adventure of lodging at Azalea Inn and Gardens in America’s Old South. Innkeeper Teresa Jacobson assisted by Kimberly, Kolin, and Miss Betty bear out the colorful, effervescent optimism that Savannah has come to be known for – ask Miss Betty to sing for you or tell a ghost story.  Kolin is known to whip up amazing desserts, such as Savannah Rum Cake, or his Carrot-Craisin Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting.  Inspiring more fun times during your Savannah adventures, these great hosts will personalize each guest’s visit as much or as little as you desire.

  I met Sue Finkle by chance at a Friday afternoon “5 for $15″ wine hour at Cha Bella restaurant a few months ago.  Sue teaches yoga at the Savannah Yoga Center located just a few blocks from our inn, as well as at a variety of business locations around Savannah.  She also holds a Master’s Degree in Marine Biology and worked as the Assistant Curator and then Curator of the Skidaway Island UGA Aquarium for 10 years.  Sue has lived in Savannah since 1997, and is passionate about bringing yoga to students of all ages and all levels.

Beginners and experienced yoga afficionados will love her Sunday Tybee Island beach class:  A one hour gentle yoga class moving slowly between poses for just the right balance between strengthening and stretching muscles. During the last 15 minutes of class enjoy deep relaxation positions.  This hour long experience helps to leave you feeling refreshed, reconnected, and relaxed.  Sue does not charge for the class, but donations are gratefully accepted.  Feel free to contact Sue at breathe2balance@yahoo.com or visit her webpage at Breath into Balance.

Time: 8:30 to 9:30 a.m. at the Gulick Street walkover, North Beach Parking Lot, Tybee Island and of course, Weather Permitting!